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KMID : 0604520220480040373
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Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
2022 Volume.48 No. 4 p.373 ~ p.383
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Comparison of Anti-inflammatory, Skin Barrier Improvement, and Anti-aging Efficacy of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis and various Eleutherococcus Genus Extract
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Han Ji-Won
Nam Bo-Mi
Lee Beom-Seok
Ko Jin-A
Hwang Ji-Young
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Abstract
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Inflammation caused by active oxygen and the resulting barrier damage have been consistently pointed out as the cause of wrinkle formation. In this study, effective index ingredient search and efficacy analysis were performed to verify the value of use as a functional cosmetic material related to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and skin barrier improvement, and anti-aging for extracts of four types of Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis (ED), Eleutherococcus senticosus (EN), Eleutherococcus sessiliflorus (ES), and Eleutherococcus sieboldianus (EI) belonging to the Eleutherococcus genus. To identify the effective index composition, the content of the ingredients was measured by high-performance liquid chromatography. The content of eleutheroside E and chlorogenic acid was the highest in ED among the Eleutherococcus genus. As for anti-oxidant activity, DPPH radical scavenging activity was the highest in ED.
In anti-inflammatory effects, ED extracts inhibited nitric oxide generation in inflammatory macrophage cells due to lipopolysaccharide by 40% at 100 μg/mL. In the case of IL-6 inhibition, which is known as a pro-inflammatory cytokine, ED showed 41% inhibition at 100 μg/mL. In addition, filaggrin and involucrin, which are skin barrier-related factors, were increased by 2.5 times and 1.6 times, respectively, in 100 μg/mL of ED extracts, and as for the collagenase, which is a wrinkle-related factor, ED extract showed 29% efficacy at 100 μg/mL. Thus, these result suggested that ED extract, among the four Eleutherococcus genus, can be used as a cosmetic ingredient for suppressing inflammation in the skin, reinforcing the skin barrier, and reducing wrinkles.
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KEYWORD
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inflammation, skin barrier, anti-wrinkle, eleutherococcus genus, Eleutherococcus divaricatus var. chiisanensis
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